AKKO (Acre)

The old city of Akko (Acre) toegether with the surrounding modern city, is today home to a mixed population of Jews, Muslims, Christians & Bahai.

The ancient seaport city of Akko is located on the northern coastal plain & was an important way-station along the age-old maritime route from Egypt to Lebanon known as the via Maris. The city was also a landing point from which traders or armies could disembark, travel eastwards & connect up with a branch of the via Maris that led to Syria. These two factors secured the city's commercial & military value throughout the ages.

First mentioned in Egyptian execretion texts from 1800 B.C.E, Akko was initialy an inland tel known today as Tel el-Fukhar or Napoleans Hill. It was first inhabited during the Canaanite period ( 3300 B.C.E. -1200 B.C.E) & later became part of the Israelite tribal allotment of Asher who were unable to capture the city ( Judges 1:31). The conquest of the city was left to King David who in the 10th century B.C.E. conquered the city. With the death of King Solomon in 930 B.C.E, the United Kingdom transformed into the Divided Kingdom. The area to the north of Jerusalem which included Akko adopted the name Israel & the area to the south including Jerusalem aquired the name Judah. With the destruction of the northern kingdom (Israel) in 722 by the Assyrians, the city residents surrended themselves to Sannecherib in 710 B.C.E. - the Assyrian leader of the period.

With the arrival of Alexander the Great in 332 B.C.E, the Hellinistic period began & ended in 167 B.C.E. It was during this period that Akko relocated to the sea shore & was transformed into a Hellenistic city & renamed Ptolomias.

The Hasmoneans ( 167 B.C.E-63 B.C.E.) failed to recapture the city which later fell to the Romans in 63 B.C.E.

The Romans renamed the city Colonia Ptolomias & used it as a naval base. During the great Jewish revolt againts Rome ( 66 C.E. – 73 C.E.), many resident Jews were slaughtered but returned to the city during the later Roman & Byzantine period ( 324 C.E.– 638 C.E.). During this latter period Samaritans made up the largest percentage of the population, consequently the city was renamed Samaritiki. Just prior to the end of the Byzantine period the Persians, whom the Jews supported, conquered the city & ruled it for two decades until the arrival of the Arabs in 638 C.E.

During the early Arab period ( 638-1099) the city was revived. The name Akko was restored, and the architect/engineer Ibn Tulun developed the port facilities. Fortifications were strengthened and Akko toegether with Tyre became important ports in the region.

The Crusaders made their appearance & occupied the Holyland from 1099 to 1291. In 1104 they conquered & fortified Akko in order to create a naval base. The Crusaders were helped in their conquests by the Genoese, Venician, & Pisa fleets who were rewarded for their support by being granted permission to establish Kahn's, which were self governing merchant communes within the city that were exempt from taxation. In 1187 Saladin managed to restore Muslim rule to the city but was later defeated by Richard the LionHeart in 1191 therby giving control back to the Crusaders. Contrary to their usual custom of expelling or slaughtering the Jews, the Crusaders allowed the Jews to remain in Akko. The Crusaders were followed by the Mamlukes who's occupation lasted from 1291 to 1516. However, prior to the Mamluk arrival in the Holyland they had gained power in Egypt and by extension power over the surrounding region. In 1267 they annexed Jerusalem to the Mamluk kingdom forcing the Crusaders to move their capitol to Akko. In addition this annexation helped revive the Jewish community in Jerusalem which under Crusader rule was viciously suppressed. In 1291 the Mamlukes destroyed the port in order to prevent the the Crusaders from returning.

Though populated and still in commercial use the city lay in ruins until 1750 when the bedouin sheik Dahr el-Omar (1750-1775) created an independent fifedom in the Galilee. He rebuilt the city, made it his capitol & invited Jews to return to the city. A new man & soldier of fortune by the name of Ahmed el-Jazzar & nicknamed "the butcher"(1775-1804) killed Dahr el-Omar & seized power. He continued rebuilding the city & futher solidified his rule by burying the 12th century knights Hospitaler fortress & built a palace & citadel on the site. ( The 12th century Hospitaler fortress has been uncovered and is beautifully preserved due to the earth covering ). In 1799 Napolean attempted to conquer the city but his forces were repulsed by el-Jazzar with the help of the British fleet. With the death of el-Jazzar a power struggle ensued, & in 1831 Ibrahim Pasha, the son of Mohamed Ali ruler of Egypt, took control. His rule was however short lived, & in 1840 the British forced him out.

During the British mandate period (1917-1948) the palace and treasury of el-Jazzar was converted into a prison who's inmates included Jewish underground fighters, nine of whom were hung by the British. In May 1947, the Irgun exploded a hole in the wall allowing hundreds of prisoners to escape. The 1960 Otto Preminger film Exodus records the event which was filmed on site. In May 1948 the Israel Defence Forces captured Akko in an operation named Ben Ami.

Prominent rabbis that visited the city :

The Rambam - Maimonides (1165), Benjamin of Tudela (1170), Alharizi (1212), Ramban – Nachmanides (1266).

Prominent structures within the old city :

Kahn el-Faranj (Franks lodge) -16th century.

Kahn el-Shuna (Grain lodge) – the oldest lodge. The ground floor and parts of the building were constructed during the Crusader period. Later additions by Dahar el-Omar.

Kahn el-Shawarda (Merchants lodge) – Dahar el-Omar.

Kahn el-Umdan – Ahmad el-Jazzar.

Hospitaler fortress : Built in the 12th century by the knights of St John. As mentioned previously, it was covered by Ahmed el-Jazzar and therefore beautifully preserved. An excellent example of Crusader architecture.

Crusader tunnel – In 1994 a plumber was called to fix a leaking toilet which led to the discovery of an under ground tunnel that connected the harbour to a kahn.

el-Jazzar Mosque – an excellent example of religious Ottoman architecture.

Citadel – Ahmed el-Jazzar.

Wall fortifications – Ahmed el-Jazzar.

Turkish baths – Ahmed el-Jazzar.

Clock Tower - Built in 1901 in honour of the 25th aniversary of the reign of Sultan Abdul Hamid 2 - Ruler of the Turkish Ottoman empire.

Underground prisoner's museum – Initially the Palace & treasury of el-Jazzar which the British converted into a prison during the Mandate period. Refer to the British mandate period above.

In conclusion I would like to add a present day resturant named UriBuri. I am a Jew, keep kosher & have therefore never eaten at this resturant which is not kosher. However, all non-Jewish tourist's which I have guided have without exception, raved about the resturant even though it is rather pricey.

Ron Traub (Tour Guide & Architect) Website : rontraub-tours.com Photo's : Rimonah Traub.